Gringa [or close enough] in Guatemala

Monkeys, toucans, human sacrifices & buses that leave you behind and then break down lots

Don’t worry the human sacrifices part is all history now (at least that’s what they tell us…hehe) but we did get to find out all about them when we visited the Mayan ruins in Tikal.

Spectacular.

Honestly, I don’t always find ruins that thrilling so wasn’t expecting that much, even though Tikal is known as the most ‘must see’ place of Guatemala. But I was pleasantly surprised to find Tikal terribly exciting. The Mayans have a rich and fascinating history. And there is something about walking through a jungle and seeing howler and spider monkeys swinging above you, a bright orange snake slithering across the path in front of you, and ancient mayan temples looming above the trees that gives you the distinct feeling you’ve just walked into an Indiana Jones set.

Unfortunately the president chose the same day to host a conference there for the local Mayans so we missed out on some parts, but still saw plenty. Climbing up some of the ancient stone stairways was a little scary as they were particularly slimy due to wet season and our guide was animatedly telling us stories of people who have slipped and fallen to their deaths. (Health and safety regulations and public liability insurance aren’t really an issue here…)

We also got to stay at Flores on Lake Peten Itza…another stunning Guatemalan lake. So many here. Our shower caught fire there. I guess that is what can happen when you mix electricity and water (most ‘hot showers’ here just have a showerhead with an electric element in it to heat water).

When we left Flores we had our most interesting bus ride yet (have been on all sorts of buses for more than 27 hours this trip) which involved getting rip offed on the price (long story); having to stop at a protest in a small country town, where everyone decided to go to the bathroom; I was the lucky last, and when I came out the protest had cleared and the bus had gone. The driver finally listened to the whole bus load of people shouting at him to stop about a kilometer down the road and thanks to a kind driver passing by I managed to catch up to my luggage and friends! The bus then proceeded to break down about 4 times; for the last stretch we crawled along at about 30km per hour.

But we made it to Coban, found a really lovely hostel complete with hammocks, free internet, books, movies and the nicest staff.

Last day of our trip involved the much anticipated tour to Semuc Champey and the caves of Lanquin…

A beautiful, hidden river with natural pools where you can swim and jump off waterfalls and massive caves full of bats where mayan priests stil like to sacrifice chickens.

So that is my trip and excitement over. Back to work on Monday, will be great to see the girls. Am sick AGAIN however…other bacterial infection (‘something i ate’ apparently) and the flu still. I think Guatemala might actually run out of antibiotics soon at the rate I keep needing them. Hopefully will be right by Monday.

Placencia

Where I just spent a week. Not bad hey.

But, it is definitely wet season which means what feels ilke 100% humidity…almost a bit too much.

And hurricane season. We woke up one night to a really windy storm and the electricity went out and we were quite convinced it was a hurricane coming to kill us…..haha.

But it was still incredible.

lov bileez…ah, mi gat wahn gud gud taim…

Guess what.

The Caribbean is as beautiful as you’ve heard. And more. We’re in Belize. And yes there are lots of coconuts, lots of rum, lots of sand but I’m yet to see any pirates…

Life is ridiculously laid back here. It seems the locals can hardly ever be bothered to do anything. Perfect place for a holiday. So completely different to Guatemala. And the funniest english you’ve ever heard (I keep going to speak to everyone in spanish out of habit…so strange).

I’m here with Emma and three of her friends who have come out travelling from England. We have two weeks holiday and are travelling. We had a bit of a crazy trip here, involving a crazy and very wet hour long boat road across a very choppy sea in a tiny speed boat (i found it hilarious but I’m afraid Emma’s friends were quite traumatised). We’re doing our best to do as little as possible…actually harder than it sounds considering how insanely busy my life has been the last six months. But we’re starting to walk slower, talk slower, eat slower…

The days this week are mostly consist of eating and sleeping. Lounging on the beach, where when you’re lucky a generous local who goes by the ‘coconut man’ will cut you down a fresh coconut, hacked off the top with a machete, pour in some ice and a straw and serve it with a stick of sugar cane to chew on. Now that’s the life…

Hopefully photo or two to come soon.

Mexico

¨Push the button.¨ The uniformed customs lady pointed at a small button on an equally small pedestrian light.
Emma and I were standing at the border of Guatemala and Mexico. No gate, no door, just a path, and those pedestrian lights. She points closer. Emma presses, the red light flicks instantly over to the green ´Pase´ and satisfied, the customs officer waves us through and settles back in her seat. She didn´t ask to see our passports to make sure we had received the appropriate stamps in the office up the road, didn´t check our luggage. Apparently, to enter Mexico, it was just the button that mattered. Push it, hopefully all will go well and you´ll get a green light. This is why life is so amusing over here.
We went to Mexico for only 3 days to renew our Guatemalan tourist visas (they come in 90 day lots…first time you can pay to renew, second time you have to leave the country. or you can pay and send your passport off with one of many entrepreneurs who will take your passport to the border and organise a new visa but I was a bit reluctant with this arrangement…). We took a short trip just over the border to Tapachula.

I noticed quite a few differences between Mexico and Guatemala, which actually surprised me given the proximity. To start with the immigration offices were totally different. Guatemala´s was small, when we were there lit by candlelight due to a power outage, and we had to queue outside in the rain. Mexico´s, a few metres up the road, was large, had working electricity, a waiting room, customs forms and an armed security guard keeping the hawkers away. So different.

Also, I didn´t see any barbed wire in Mexico (almost all buildings in the cities here are rimmed by razor wire), the people generally taller, the food definitely spicier, the streets cleaner, the shops a lot more open (here in Guate most little shops have bars across the front, you just ask for what you want). Spent a quiet couple of days exploring, eatting, and shopping. Unfortunately I had no luck replacing my broken shoes as the largest size there was a couple too small for me.

It was hot. And wet. Rainy season thunder is so loud. Emma was sick. I wasn´t. Which is strange considering I am normally the first to crash. Maybe my stomach is finally getting stronger. The food was incredible and totally worth the risk; tacos, and a whole lot of things I can´t spell. So spicy. So good.

Not many foreigners. You get stared at a lot for being so different in this part of the world. Sad part is, Emma and I have now become like them…we saw one gringa, and sat there in the park staring at her for ages before we realised what we´re doing…

Obviously my knowledge of Mexico is very limited as I only went to one small city. But I liked it. The coolest part, though, was coming back to Guatemala and realising that…it felt like coming home.

Back to work tomorrow.

2 weeks til my birthday.
3 weeks til I go to Belize.
Life is good.